Spantik Peak Expedition

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Spantik Peak Expedition

Spantik Peak face is climbed via two different routes. Alexander Klenov and Mikhail Davy climbed the first section of the pillar along the English route and then continued via a new line which required 11 bivouacs overall. The international team spent five days following Victor Saunders and Mick Fowler’s English route between 5th and 11th August 1987.

Expedition to Spantik Peak Gilgit Baltistan Pakistan

The teams climbed two fantastic routes on one of the hardest and most famous rock faces in the Karakoram. Their styles of ascent varied greatly, but both succeeded in climbing two great mixed routes at high altitudes. The Peak is located in the Rakaposhi and Haramoshi massif near Barpu Garumbar glaciers. Some foreign maps name it as Yengutz peak in addition to Spantik peak. Other maps call it Genish Chish (peak). Spantik reaches a height of 7027 meters. In 1892 a large expedition of W.M. Conway went to the area to explore the glaciers situated around the peak. The expedition thereafter crossed Nushik pass, which the team measured at 5273 meters and descended onto Kero Lungma glacier and Arandu.

In 1959 a British-Pakistan Army expedition under the leadership of Captain H.R.A. Streather headed to Chogolungma and Kero Lungma glaciers to explore them for a possible climb on the smaller peaks in the area. The peak was however climbed from south ridge by a Japanese Club Expedition called Hoshi-to-Arashi (Stars and Storms) led by Nakamura. The Reiho Alpine Club expedition of Japan also climbed it in the same year from southeast ridge. It was led by Y. Murata. Both expeditions mention avalanche danger in the area and both approached the peak from Chogolungma Glacier. Some Japanese publications indicate that Spantik peak was climbed in 1955 by Germans.


DEPARTURE TIME Please arrive at least 2 hours before the flight.
Domestic Airfare Accommodations
Transportation Professional guide
Entrance fees
Guide gratuity



DAY 01
DAY 02
DAY 03
DAY 04
DAY 06
DAY 07
DAY 08
DAY 09
DAY 10-25
DAY 26-28
DAY 29
DAY 30
DAY 31
DAY 32
DAY 33
Arival at Islamabad airport transfer to hotel.
Islamabad- briefing at Ministry of Tourism.
Drive to Chilas, overnight at hotel
Drive to Skardu. Overnight at hotel.
Skardu- preparations and acclimatization.
Drive to Arandu, overnight camping.
Trek via Chogo Lungma glacier.
Trek to Spantik base camp
Trek back from Spantik base camp to Arandu.
Drive to Skardu, overnight at hotel.
Skardu, overnight at hotel.
Drive to Chilas, overnight camping.
Drive to Islamabad, overnight at hotel.
Islamabad- debriefing at Ministry of Tourism.
Fly to onward destination.


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